The Louvre was wonderful. I had intended to spend only
morning there and spend the afternoon at another museum.
Since it was Sunday, the entrance fee was half-price at
many of the museums. The Richelieu wing was open, unlike
the last time, when it had been under renovation, and much
more artwork was on exhibit. I wandered through all the
paintings and sculptures that had been in storage the last
time I visited. By the time I had seen everything I could
stand to see, it was already closing time. So much for
visiting another museum! I don't think I was in any shape
to appreciate more art at that point anyway.
Since another museum was
out of the question, but I still had several hours left in
Paris, I strolled along the Rive Droit to l'Ile de la
Cité and to Nôtre Dame, where I arrived just
in time for evening Mass. After Mass, it was still early
enough that I decided I had enough time to retrieve my
staff from Gare Austerlitz and I spent another half hour
walking along the Rive Gauche to reach the station. I went
into the WC and tried to explain what had happened to the
attendant who had a hard time understanding my rusty
French. The staff wasn't leaning against the water pipes
any longer, nor was it in any closet she checked. I was
about to leave, when she spotted one closet near the exit
that we hadn't opened yet. She pulled the door open and
there was my staff among the brooms and mops! Even though I
had resigned myself to giving it up for lost, I was happy
to see my faithful companion again.
I set out across Paris
again, this time planning to go by foot the whole way. I
calculated that I should arrive at the coach station with
nearly an hour to spare, even though I was clear across the
city. I wandered west, then cut north through some quarters
that I had haunted the last time I was in Paris, stumbling
onto crêpe stands and past interesting restaurants
offering cuisines from all around the world. I did succumb
to a strawberry crêpe, though I was still carrying
around food from Santiago and didn't have much money to
spare, so I stayed out of the restaurants. Gare du Nord
finally loomed in front of me. It was getting late and I
was getting tired. I pulled my bag out of the locker,
studied my map and started walking toward the coach
station. It looked as if I wouldn't have to go very far, so
I decided against trying to catch a coach. The
neighborhoods grew seedier as left central Paris. I moved
quickly and no one bothered me, though I saw few other
tourists. I walked and walked before I reached the general
area of the coach terminal. Although I didn't have the
exact address, I thought I should be able find it easily
since I had arrived at the same terminal early one morning
only a month before. I thought I was drawing near and
suddenly I had no idea where I was. Nothing looked quite as
I remembered it! I didn't know where the coach terminal
might be and the area looked less familiar the longer I
looked around. By that time, I had only half an hour before
the coach was scheduled to leave. I still have time, I
thought to myself. I asked the driver of a German tour
coach waiting on a square if he had any idea where my own
coach was located. He didn't have any information and
neither did the other driver I asked.