I started to panic. I had come to a square with large
streets in all directions. I began to run first down one,
then down another. I still couldn't find anything that
looked familiar. A group of homeless men were camped in the
middle of the square. They pointed and laughed at me after
the third time I went running by with my huge pack on my
back. I looked at my watch. The coach was scheduled to
leave in five minutes. I had to resign myself to spending
the night in Paris unless I could flag it down as it drove
past. I didn't even know what street it might be on, so I
wasn't surprised when the departure time came and passed
without sighting the coach. I had the phone number of the
coach company in London. I found a phone and managed to
reach the office, though of course no one was there, close
to midnight on a Sunday night. The only consolation was
that someone had left a large pile of magazines on the
sidewalk next to the phone booth and that meant I could
have something to read while I waited for the next coach in
the morning.
A bar was open on the
corner. I walked in to ask the bartender if he might know
where to find the coach station. He had never heard of the
company. A group of four transvestites in leather giggled
at me as I walked out. I started back the way I had come,
no longer running. It was time to find some place to
stay.
A block or two away from
the bar, I looked at my map for the first time since
leaving Gare du Nord a few hours earlier. There was the
street I first walked when I got off the coach as I arrive
in Paris. That was the one I should have looked for in the
first place. I looked up at the plaque on the building
across the intersection and discovered that I was standing
at that very same corner. I looked across the boulevard and
spotted the entrance to the hotel where the bus terminal
sat. I had walked right by it and never noticed. I crossed
the street, saw that the next coach left at 9:00 on Monday
morning. I wouldn't miss the terminal the next time.
I went off in search of a
cheap hotel. The first one I tried was cheap enough and
they had rooms available. Unfortunately, they would only
accept cash--no credit cards. Since I had changed only a
few dollars, I didn't have enough for the cheapest room. I
told the clerk that I would be back if I could get some
francs. He looked at his watch and told me I had better
hurry. I tried a cash machine again with no more luck than
earlier in the day. I tried using my credit card, but I
couldn't remember the secret code, so I couldn't get any
cash that way either. I had to find a hotel that would
accept my credit card.
When several more visits to
seedy hotels failed to produce a single one that would
accept my credit card, I gave up and began to walk back to
Gare du Nord. I figured that I could at least put my bag
back in a locker and sleep on a bench. I eyed construction
sites and empty benches along the boulevard as I walked. I
was so tired that I could imagine stretching out in some
hiding place for the night. This part of Paris was too
rough for that, though, and I kept walking.